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Leaving a Lasting Impression - A Lifelong Journey

Wed, 04 Mar 2026 21:52:50 GMT

Hiking, roaming, wandering and exploring Yellowstone.

Not long ago I came across a copy of my birth certificate. At first I didn't give it much thought but after a few days I sat down to have a closer look. The document has seen better days but thankfully it’s still in one piece. Sadly, there are three distinct creases that perforate the paper where it was carelessly folded. The official seal containing the name of the hospital and the date it was incorporated appears on the front, embossed and covered in bright gold foil. The seal appears in relief on the back, partially covering my mother’s right thumbprint. A brief family history is written across the top along with my birth weight and length. At the bottom is a simple but important reminder that this document should be carefully preserved and protected.

However, what really caught my eye were the two faint impressions that appeared in the middle, my tiny newborn feet. At that moment I had yet to take my first steps in this world and now those prints were a powerful reminder of just how far I’ve travelled, hiked, roamed, wandered and explored since that day in January sixty-plus years ago—saying that out loud is surreal. In that instant I began looking back on my life and reflecting on the things I’ve accomplished and where I’ve been. The journey has been filled with plenty of successes and a handful of failures but I’m grateful for each and every experience. Without those moments we never have the opportunity to grow.

In 2002 I moved to Bozeman and I can honestly say I’ve discovered my place in life, and a home here in Montana. Not long after moving to Bozeman I began exploring Yellowstone and for nearly two decades the park has been a significant part of my life. Before becoming a guide in 2014 I had spent a great deal of time getting to know the park and those early adventures would create the foundation for what would eventually become my full-time job.

Like so many others I'm drawn to Yellowstone for a variety of reasons. To me Yellowstone is a wonderful reminder of what this country was like just a few hundred years ago. It's a place that makes you feel very small, yet very much alive. You can spend a single day, or an entire week, hiking in Yellowstone’s backcountry and rarely see another person, and it's gratifying to know there are still places where humans have a limited presence on the landscape.

I’m not sure where this wanderlust comes from but my curiosity, along with my desire to continue learning has always been there and for that I’m grateful. I enjoy sharing these beautiful landscapes with others, and teaching Yellowstone’s fascinating history, learning about its unique and dynamic geology and witnessing its iconic wildlife firsthand is just the icing on the cake.

My journey started over sixty years ago when my feet were gently inked and pressed onto my birth certificate. After six decades and thousands of miles in the backcountry they still carry me comfortably across the wonderful landscapes of Yellowstone. A place where I can educate others while leaving a different kind of impression in the process.

I hope to see you in Yellowstone.

-B-

Hiking in Yellowstone - The Last Days of Autumn

Sat, 25 Oct 2025 15:42:17 GMT

Beautiful meadows tinted gold by the changing seasons

This was the last weekend for automobile traffic in Yellowstone before the interior roads are temporarily closed to prepare for the winter season and over-the-snow travel. I didn't have a specific hike in mind when I left Bozeman, I was just hoping to find a trail that was relatively dry despite the recent snow. As I drove into Yellowstone from the West Entrance the road was nearly devoid of traffic. A handful of fishermen were braving the last few days of autumn to fly-fish along the Madison River and the road from Madison Junction to the Lower Geyser Basin was just as quiet. For the first time this season it felt as if the park were truly empty and it would be a welcome change to experience the quieter side of Yellowstone.

As I left Madison Junction I decided on Sentinel and Imperial Meadows for my hike. These two trails make for an easy 10.3 mile loop that begins along Fountain Flat Drive. As you head south towards Old Faithful, Fountain Flat Drive will be on the right just past the Nez Perce Picnic Area. Follow this paved road to the trailhead which starts at the southern edge of the large parking lot.

The Sentinel Meadows area is incredibly flat with almost no elevation gain. Much of the landscape here consists of sprawling meadows (who would have guessed) with stands of lodgepole pine along the fringes and a variety of thermal features dispersed in between. This area was named for the large geyserite mounds formed by Flat Cone, Steep Cone and Mound Spring that seemingly watch over this surreal landscape like “sentinels.” The trails meander through low-lying areas that tend to be wet throughout much of the year; however, they are generally in good shape and are easy to follow. Numerous hot springs dot the landscape and from across these grand meadows gentle columns of steam rise like ghostly apparitions into the cool and calm autumn air.

Sentinel Meadows is part of the Lower Geyser Basin and the most notable thermal features here include: Ojo Caliente, Spanish for "hot spring," this beautiful blue/green spring appears on the right just before you reach the Firehole River. Steep Cone, Mound and Flat Cone springs are located within the Sentinel Meadows Group and are easily distinguishable by their distinct geyserite mounds. The historic Queen’s Laundry Bathhouse is located to the west and Imperial Geyser and Fairy Falls can be found further to the south.

The Queen's Laundry Bathhouse—or what remains of it—can be difficult to find but with a good map and some basic navigation skills it's possible to locate the remnants of this tiny two-room log structure along the western edge of the Sentinel Meadows loop. Construction of the bathhouse began in 1881 and was commissioned by the park's second superintendent Philetus Norris, but unfortunately the project was never completed. It was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2001 and is considered one of the earliest examples of a federally funded project built specifically for public use.

Tucked away at the very southwestern edge of this hike is Imperial Geyser. Imperial is a very active spouter that reaches heights of between 20-60 ft., with near constant eruptions. Its emerald waters are often obscured by thick clouds of steam that swirl across its boiling surface. Along the edges of the geyser, bacteria known as “thermophiles,” or “heat-loving” organisms create the brightly colored layers that are present in many of the hot springs in Yellowstone.

To the south and east of Imperial Geyser is the very popular Fairy Falls. This delicate waterfall drops 200 ft. in feathery strands that darken the surrounding cliff face. When approaching from the north this dark patch is the easiest way to identify Fairy Falls from a distance. During the summer months this is a popular destination for day hikers but in late October it was devoid of any and all tourists.

Bison, elk, and grizzly are common throughout this area but at the moment even they seem to have all but vanished like the tourists. Some of the park’s bison will make the journey west along the Madison river toward Hebgen Lake while others will congregate near the park’s thermal areas, seeking refuge in these temporary winter oases. Grizzly bears are excavating den sites, in preparation for the long, harsh winters and elk are migrating to more favorable winter ranges to the north and south and this is just another seasonal transition for these iconic Yellowstone animals.

This is always a nice hike regardless of the time of year but in the fall it's a real gem that is easily overlooked. Its beautiful meadows tinted gold by the changing seasons, the myriad of thermal features located well off the beaten path provide an easy getaway into Yellowstone pristine backcountry.

Republic Pass - A Journey into Yellowstone's High Country

Sat, 23 Aug 2025 15:28:27 GMT

Ancient rocks, alpine scenery and a landscape scarred by fire.

This was my fourth trip to Republic Pass (9,957 ft.) and it remains one of the most scenic and rewarding destinations in northeast Yellowstone. It’s a difficult hike of around 8.0 miles round-trip that’s best attempted during mid-to-late summer. It can be completed as a two or three day point-to-point backpacking trip by following the Cache Creek Trail to the Lamar River Trail.

The hiking is relatively easy over the first 3.0 miles and climbs gently through mature forests of spruce and fir trees to the top of the pass, gaining just over 1,700 ft. in elevation. At mile 1.3 the trail enters a large meadow where you'll have a spectacular view toward Republic Pass to the as well as the steep slopes of Woody Ridge to the east. At the southeastern end of this meadow there is a primitive campsite that could be used as a jumping-off point if you were interested in staying a night in this area before heading up to the pass. The food storage pole is just visible between two pine trees at the southeastern edge of the meadow. This portion of the trail is located within the Shoshone National Forest so backcountry permits are not required to camp here.

At around mile 3.0 the grade steepens considerably and before long your legs begin to feel the effects of the elevation. Fortunately, the scenery gets better with each step and you'll have the perfect excuse for taking regular breaks—at least that's what you can tell your hiking partners. To the north are the formidable granite peaks of the Beartooth Mountains and they create a sharp and jagged profile against the clear Montana skyline. The rocks of the Beartooth Mountains are some of the oldest rocks on the planet, dating back nearly 4 billion years.

As you near the pass the trail cuts west across the steep northern face of this wide drainage. A large patch of snow was still present on the north side of the pass but in late August it was not large enough to cover the trail. On our previous trip to Republic Pass we hiked this trail in early July and we had to navigate a section of this snowfield which was more substantial in size. In July the wildflowers can cover nearly every square inch of the pass but during this visit there were only a handful of flowers still in bloom.

From the pass the views stretch for miles in nearly every direction. The tops of Index and Pilot Peak are just visible on the horizon to the east and if you look toward a long, uneven ridge directly to the south you'll notice a very small arch called the "Eye of the Needle." From the summit of Republic Pass mountains form layer upon layer in all directions.

In 1988 the gateway towns of both Cooke City and Silvergate were nearly destroyed by the historic 88' forest fires that overwhelmed Yellowstone National Park that year. The hillsides north of these two small towns still bear the scars of these devastating fires that consumed more than 793,000 acres within the park.

The Republic Creek Trailhead is located in the Shoshone National Forest just outside of Yellowstone National Park, 1.4 miles south of the old mining town of Cooke City. Finding the trailhead requires a great deal of faith because there are no signs. The parking lot for the trailhead can be found at the end of a narrow and winding 4WD road. The road climbs about 500 ft. to the trailhead which is just north of the Wyoming border. If you're heading east into Cooke City turn right on Republic Street just before the Yamaha dealership. The road dead ends at this very small gravel parking lot. There are a number of private residences in this area so be considerate if you park your vehicle below the trailhead.

Fly fishing the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

Sat, 12 Jul 2025 17:03:18 GMT

The Yellowstone River is an iconic waterway with plenty of elbow room and plenty of wild and beautiful cutthroat trout.

Standing knee-deep in the Yellowstone River you steady yourself against the fast-moving current. After just a few casts you feel a subtle tug at the end of your line just below the water's surface. You instinctively raise your fly rod toward the sky, adjusting the direction of the rod to the left and then back to the right as you work to maintain tension on the line. A large fish frantically breaks the surface in a flash of color before diving back into the depths of the river. Your fly rod bends under the weight of the fish as you slowly and carefully reel in your quarry, a beautiful native cutthroat trout, common in both the Yellowstone River and Yellowstone Lake. On a good day it’s a wonderful process that repeats itself with nearly every cast.

Cutthroat are abundant in the Yellowstone River and this stretch of water sees very little pressure from fishing. The 6.5 mile hike from the Specimen Ridge Trailhead is a mix of steep climbs, rolling grasslands and an even steeper descent that keeps all but the most dedicated fly fishermen from this remote backcountry location. Regardless, it’s probably one of the best fly fishing destinations in all of Yellowstone and getting here is an exciting part of the journey.

The Agate Creek Trail starts high above the Yellowstone River and provides spectacular views of this iconic waterway as it leaves the confines of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone on its 671-mile journey to join the Missouri River. The trail is only accessible from the Specimen Ridge Trailhead which is located east of Tower Junction as you’re heading toward the Lamar Valley. At the trail's highest point you’ll be treated to beautiful panorama’s of the surrounding landscape before descending approximately 1,300 feet to the river below. The only backcountry campsite (2Y1) is situated a short distance above the river so you’re guaranteed to have this location all to yourself if you stay here for a night or two.

As you traverse the Agate Creek Trail you’ll often find elk, bison, bighorn sheep and American pronghorn roaming this immense landscape, grazing on the lush grasses found on these gently rolling hillsides above the river. Depending on the time of year, a variety of wildflowers blanket the landscape, while insects dart frantically between the brightly colored flowers in an effort to collect the pollen before Yellowstone’s brief summer comes to an end. Elk antlers, or “sheds” are as prolific as the wildflowers and industrious hikers will often collect the antlers and stack them in large piles beside the trail, or in sizable clusters surrounding the rock cairns and trail markers. The bleached bones of the aforementioned animals are also common sight, transported from their place of origin—or their final resting place as the case may be—by a variety of animals that were lucky enough to scavenge a meal from the once bountiful carcass.

The Yellowstone River is one of the last free-flowing rivers in the Lower 48 and was given the name “Mi tse a-da-zi” or “Rock Yellow River” by the Minnetree tribe that occupied an area east of what would eventually become the national park. French-Canadian trappers translated the word into “Roche Jaune” and subsequent English translations became “Yellow Stone” and finally “Yellowstone.” The headwaters of the Yellowstone can be found just outside the park’s southeastern boundary along the flanks of Younts Peak. The peak is named after Harry Yount, a frontiersman from Missouri who was hired as Yellowstone’s first “gamekeeper,” or what we might recognize as our modern day “park ranger.” Yount was hired by the park’s second superintendent Philetus Norris and was saddled with the daunting task of protecting Yellowstone’s wildlife from all manner of harm. A task that was too big for any one person given the park’s remote location and lack of roads during Yount’s brief tenure as Yellowstone’s only gamekeeper.

As the Yellowstone River enters the park from the south it meanders through an area known as the Thorofare, a beautiful and remote river valley flanked by the towering peaks of the Absaroka Mountains to the east and the Two Ocean Plateau to the west. The Thorofare Ranger Station is considered the furthest dwelling from any road in the Lower 48 at a distance of thirty two miles and was an easy route to and from the Tetons. From here the Yellowstone River enters the clear and cold waters of Yellowstone Lake, the largest high-elevation lake in North America over 7,000 ft, with more than 141 miles of rocky shoreline. As the river exits the lake near Fishing Bridge it continues its journey northward through the Hayden Valley, a haven for a variety of Yellowstone’s iconic wildlife. Before long the slow moving waters of the Yellowstone River tumble over two successive waterfalls; the Upper Falls (109 ft.) and the Lower Falls (308 ft.) before it finally enters the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. Our destination sits at the northern end of this rugged canyon that runs for nearly twenty miles.

This hike takes a fair amount of energy so plan accordingly. Your legs will probably be tired from the 6.4 mile hike (one-way) but once you get settled it's easy to find the energy need to wet a line. The campsite is located about two tenths of a mile above the Yellowstone River so if you plan to fly fish you'll want to make sure you have all your gear organized before you drop down to the river. The trail is still fairly steep near the campsite, making quick trips back and forth a bit tedious. Regardless, this is a great place to spend a day or two fishing alongside this remote section of the Yellowstone River.

One Families Backpacking Adventure in Yellowstone

Sun, 31 Aug 2014 15:07:15 GMT

"Mom sat with Dad on a log, then Mom shouted out with glee. Bison!”

The following is an excerpt from a diary kept by the Goss family during their 3-day guided backpacking trip with Trail Guides Yellowstone. The entries were written by one of their children and they were gracious enough to share their experience with us.

8/21 – 8/22 Backpacking Day 1 (Olivia)

Day one of our backpacking trip! We set off a bit late and drove to the Fairy Falls Trailhead. We waited and waited, but we couldn’t see anyone who was our guide. We were starting to worry, and even the birds (ravens) had nested on our roof. “Donde Esta, Donde Esta Brian”, the kids sang with delight, to the tune from Pink Martini. Then dad said he saw a man but dad sounded shy. So I stuck my head out of the car window and waved enthusiastically at the first person I saw. Luckily it was Brian, our guide. He came over and shook hands with dad. They bonded quickly. We got our food and a run through of bear spray, our trip and safety. We set off, but Brian suddenly had to make sure his car was locked. Sound like anyone we know? I’ll give you a hint, it starts with R and rhymes with Mick. We started our walk at the Biscuit Basin. We first went to a waterfall called Mystic Falls. Then the hills came. There were switch backs but they were like (sharp zigzags) not gradual! After that struggle, we went to a lookout. Right as we were leaving, it started to rain. It rained and rained until finally it cleared up a bit. The good thing about the hill was that it was at the beginning and that was basically all of our steep up-hills for the rest of the trip.

The terrain turned to rolling hills. We finally passed the campsite before ours (OD1), and within a mile, we got to our campsite (OD2). 6 MILES that day!! We were in a forest on the edge of a huge meadow. It was beautiful. When we got to our spot, it was pretty warm and sunny. We set up our tent and soaked our feet in the cold stream. The weather started to turn ominously cloudy. We got our stuff in the tent and made a fire. Anthony made it and it was a “furnace”. Then we had spaghetti and meat sauce. It was really good! As soon as we got everything eaten and put away, the rain hit. Mom and I ran for the tent. We didn’t realize we had brought into the tent a scented hand sanitizer. We quickly forgot about it. Then Anthony was complaining about how much dad smelled, and so I helpfully offered the hand sanitizer. Dad had a ‘cow’ about us not being on the same page and that we shouldn’t have it in the tent. He brought it back to the camp area and returned, wet and cranky. We went to sleep soundly and tired and sore, and a bit wet. Brian told us that the weather was exceptionally bad. (frowny face). Did we bring Pacific NW weather with us? The rain poured and poured that night.

8/22 – 8/23 Backpacking Day 2 (Olivia)

We woke up leisurely to some clouds. Mom, Anthony and I had a game of Wizard. Anthony won. We weren’t exactly looking forward to the day when it started to drizzle. Some of us may have mentioned Hawaii. I don’t remember who though, but it started with “N” and rhymed with Lanette. The drizzle continued as we broke camp. It didn’t help our excitement that Brian told us the 2nd day was the hardest because we would be sore from day 1. We left around 11 a.m., and set off for the day, not knowing if Brian’s prophecy would come true or not.

As we started, the rain slowed, then stopped, which made us very happy. Hawaii was pushed to the middle of our minds. The terrain was somewhat rolling but there were only a few actual hills. We set off expecting the worst, but hoping for the best. We trusted Brian at this point, so we thought we were going to be sore and stiff. As we slogged along, we came to a road block. It was a tree that had fallen with multiple prongs. We asked him our mileage, and he said, “2 miles”. I thought we were dogging it, but we were in fact flying! Our next stop was at the top of one of the Twin Buttes. We had a lunch of bars and beef jerky. The view was incredible, the sky looked huge, and the trees were tall. The view was awesome, because we could see exactly where it was on the map, indicating how far we’d come – 5 miles! It felt like we’d only gone a few. Also, from the top, we could see our meadow-y destination. We felt hopeful, and admitted that we felt the 2nd day was not that hard. Brian was proud.

We continued on to Fairy Falls, called that because of its dainty-like qualities. Even though it was thinner than most falls, I wouldn’t name it because of its daintiness. The falls were about a mile away from our destination, OD4. We threw our backpacks down and ran to the base of the falls. I was ahead of everyone else, and just as I got about 50 yards from the water, I skidded to a stop. From where I stood, I could see a cute little creature eating berries. I wasn’t sure what it was, and I didn’t want to call out because I was worried I would scare it. My family and Brian were slow-poking their way toward me. I mimed my predicament as best I could, and my dad hurried over. “Marmot” he whispered. The rest of our crew followed suit, and speedily came over. Anthony and I named him Jerry with a G. He was a fat little guy filling his gullet with currents. We tore our eyes away from Gerry to admire the falls. Two crazy young guys swam in the freezing water. I was “jealous”. As we turned to leave, Gerry was still there. We waved goodbye and got our packs on for the last stretch. Brian knew a shortcut. Instead of going on the trail, a very roundabout way, we cut right through the meadow to our spot, another sign of Brian’s expertise. Once we got to OD4, we went into auto-pilot mode. Brian and I filled the water filter, involving slogging through 2 inches of muddy grass water. Anthony and I built the fire, which rocked, if I do say so myself.

Mom sat with Dad on a log, until Mom shouted out with glee. “Bison”! We all froze what we were doing, and snapped our heads to look. Far to our left, 2 bison were chomping along. Specks of Dust, but the coolest thing we’d seen yet. They sauntered around, eating grass in a wide circle. One of them disappeared into the forest, and the 2nd kept circling…. was he coming towards us? Out of everywhere in the meadow, (it munched its way into our camp area, flicking its tongue as a sensor and not being too alarmed), picked 3 feet from our tent to stand by. Brian said that hopefully he would move on. It (Fred or Ferdinand) promptly lied down. The only thing we could do was watch it and eat dinner. We had an assortment of rice and chicken. Then for dessert, we had raspberry stuff with cookie crumble on top. Once mixed, it looked a lot like bear poop. When we asked Brian his favorite freeze dried dessert he said it was definitely ‘bear poop”. It was delicious. After we ate, Brian and Dad got up to try to move our tent, since Fred had not moved. As they got closer, Fred stood up abruptly and stared at them. They backed away. Then Fred, already standing, continued to eat in a wide area, before entering the forest. Bye Fred: We turned away sadly, and to our delight, we saw a herd of elk across the meadow. Two males and a ton of females, and a few babies who were playing tag. There were at least 20 or so of them! After all this excitement, we finally went to bed. We woke up with spirits sky high because we knew we were on the home stretch and we could almost say we had completed a back-packing trip. 7 miles to go!

8/23 – 8/24 Backpacking Day 3 (Anthony)

We left our campsite tired but determined. OD4 had treated us to a mix of scenery and wildlife. We will never forget the sights, but it was time to go home. After a delicious breakfast of granola and blueberries, another example of our guide Brian’s fine culinary choices for the trip, ominous clouds rolled in and a fierce wind arose, signaling it was time to move on. Naturally we wanted to complete our seven mile hike as quickly as possible. Our three day backpacking adventure had been a trip to remember, but we were all stinky and the thought of a shower was somewhat holy at this point. We put on our packs, grateful that our bodies had gotten used to the weight and headed off on a roundabout trail to our car. Along the way, we stopped at the Grand Prismatic. It was a thermal spring, recommended to us by many people and it didn’t disappoint. Grand Prismatic was more than a spring. It was an incredible circular pool, deep blue in the middle with the colors of the rainbow encircling it with various types of rock. We hiked up a butte, about 200 feet, to get a better view of the spring. We continued on, stopping for lunch near the parking lot of the place where we initially met Brian, Fairy Falls trailhead. The view was nice and the geyser was cool, but all we wanted was to return to civilization. Our final home stretch was on a delightfully scenic route called the power line trail. The walk was in a nice wooded area and you only realized why the trail had its name, if you looked up and saw the thick, black cords streaming overhead.

Finally, we walked up to our car as the first rain we'd had since Day 1 started trickling down. We said goodbye to Brian, our old guide and new friend, and we drove for cell service. We checked in at a Super 8 and ate at a local restaurant in Cooke City, Montana. The food, heating and sight of other people reminded us it was good to be back where we could poop in a toilet. As we fell asleep, we all shared thoughts….. “Ahhhhh”.